When I spray Diptyque Philosykos Eau de Parfum (EDP), grass, fig and a slight coconut-like note all rise up together. It's a fruity scent that isn't too sweet, so it never feels heavy, and since it works in any season, it's the perfume I reach for most often every day. It's also the very scent I picked in my perfume taste guide for "when I want to lie down in a grassy field." If you like fruity perfumes but find peach scents too common and a little tiresome by now, I hope you'll take a look at the fig family with me in this post.
This post is based on the Eau de Parfum (EDP), which is the one I use. Philosykos also comes as an Eau de Toilette (EDT), but even as an EDP it isn't too heavy, so it's fine to spray it several times.
What Kind of Fragrance Is Diptyque Philosykos?
Philosykos was first released by the French brand Diptyque in 1996 as an Eau de Toilette, created by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti. The Eau de Parfum is a version that came out later. The name means "friend of the fig" in Greek, and true to its name, it set out to capture an entire fig tree in one scent.
The Philosykos Eau de Parfum has only four notes.
- Fig leaves
- Fig tree sap
- Fig tree wood
- Black pepper
Concept diagram: the Philosykos notes are the leaves, sap and wood of the fig tree plus black pepper, with no fruit (figure labels in Korean)
What stands out is that the fig fruit isn't on the list. Leaves, sap, wood and pepper. Yet when you spray it, you clearly smell something fruity, and because that fig character comes from the leaves and sap rather than the sweetness of the fruit, it's fruity without being too sweet.
When I first smelled it, I was puzzled by a coconut-like note, and I was told that fig leaves themselves have a scent similar to coconut. Some fragrance databases do list coconut separately among the Philosykos notes, but since it isn't in the note list, it seems the fig leaves may be what makes it feel that way rather than added coconut.
The notes here are the four that retailers of the Diptyque Eau de Parfum list in common. Breakdowns into top, middle and base notes differ from source to source, so I haven't included one.
How Does the Scent Change Over Time?
The notes are only known as these four, not split into top, middle and base, but the order you notice as time passes after spraying goes roughly like this.
- The first few minutes: the green smell of leaves rubbed between your fingers. The slightly bitter, moist smell of a snapped green leaf comes up first. Black pepper gives a light prickle that keeps the scent crisp.
- A little later: fig and a hint of coconut. The sharpness of the leaves settles, a coconut-like note blends in, and the fig comes through most clearly. Think of the white sap that comes out when you snap a fig stem, and this is the stage I like best.
- The dry down: a dry tree trunk. At the end, a dry, warm woody scent remains, like bark warmed by the sun. It finishes with almost no sweetness, so the base notes never become a burden by the afternoon.
Concept diagram: how the scent changes from right after spraying to the dry down (figure labels in Korean)
Tired of Peach? Why Fig?
When you shop for fruity perfumes, you run into peach scents all the time, and because they're so common, they can feel like something you've smelled everywhere and get tiresome fast. That's when I'd recommend the fig family.
- It isn't common. It's not a familiar fruity scent like peach, so even when you wear a fruity perfume, you're less likely to smell like everyone else.
- It isn't too sweet. The freshness of leaves and wood comes along with it, more than the sweetness of the fruit, so it's fruity without feeling heavy.
- It feels natural. With grass and wood underneath, it feels less like wearing perfume and more like you've just come in from the shade of a tree.
Why It Works for People Who Can't Wear Sweet Scents
As I wrote in my perfume taste guide, scents with amber, vanilla or caramel in the base give me a headache. So I check the base notes first when choosing a perfume, and Philosykos passes that test easily.
| What to check | Philosykos |
|---|---|
| Amber, vanilla or tonka bean in the base? | None (notes are leaves, sap, wood and pepper) |
| Built around sweet fruitiness? | No (fig fruit isn't a listed note) |
| Gets heavier over time? | No (finishes light with dry wood) |
| Strongly gendered? | No (grass and wood make it genderless) |
This is where people get confused when choosing a fig perfume for the first time: if you pick by the word "fig" alone, you can end up with a perfume built around a jammy, sweet fruit note. If you want a fig scent that isn't too sweet, check first whether the notes include fig leaves and wood, or only the fruit, and you'll make fewer mistakes.
Why Is It a Good Daily Perfume?
Philosykos is a perfume you can wear comfortably in all four seasons. In summer the fresh leafy scent doesn't feel stuffy, and in fall and winter the dry wood dry down lingers calmly, so you don't have to switch perfumes with the seasons.
It also matters that it's fruity without being overwhelming. Fruity perfumes with a strong sweet note can be a concern at the office or in crowded places, but with Philosykos the grass and wood keep the sweetness in check, so I spray it without a second thought whether I'm heading to work or going out casually on the weekend. Even though it's an EDP, it isn't too heavy, so spraying it again in the afternoon doesn't feel stifling. That's why it's the first perfume I reach for on days when I can't decide what to wear.
Good to Know Before You Buy
Wait at least 30 minutes before deciding. The green leaves and pepper in the first few minutes can be divisive, but the charm of Philosykos is in the next stage, when the sap and wood come through. Spraying it on your wrist rather than a paper strip lets you see how it changes on your skin.
Don't worry if you think an EDP might be too much. An Eau de Parfum sounds like it would be strong and heavy, but the Philosykos EDP isn't too heavy, so it's fine to spray it several times. If you'd still like something lighter, try it side by side with the Eau de Toilette at a store and pick from there.
If You Like Fig, Try These Too
If you liked Philosykos, be sure to try these perfumes from the same fig family.
- Acqua di Parma Fico di Amalfi: As the name suggests, it calls to mind figs on Italy's Amalfi coast, and it's a fig perfume I love too.
- D.S. & Durga Debaser: Since it's described with coconut milk alongside fig, it's a good one to compare if you liked the slight coconut note in Philosykos.
If you liked the wood more, also try the forest-style woody perfume I wrote about in my LOEWE ESENCIA EDP review.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Diptyque Philosykos a sweet scent?
It isn't very sweet. The Eau de Parfum's notes are fig leaves, fig tree sap, fig tree wood and black pepper, with no sweet ingredients like fig fruit or vanilla. It's closer to a green woody fragrance that starts with fresh leaves and ends with dry wood.
Can both men and women wear Philosykos?
Yes. It centers on leaves and wood rather than flowers or sweetness, so it's a genderless perfume without a strong gender image. If you're looking for a clean, natural scent, it suits anyone regardless of gender.
What season is Philosykos best for?
It works in all four seasons. In summer the fresh leaves don't feel stuffy, and in fall and winter the dry wood dry down lingers calmly. Because it's fruity without being too sweet, it's a daily perfume that fits any season or setting.
Isn't the Philosykos Eau de Parfum heavy?
It's an Eau de Parfum, but it isn't too heavy, so it's fine to spray it several times. It centers on grass and wood without a strong sweet note, so reapplying during the day doesn't build up into something stifling.
Why does Philosykos smell like coconut?
Coconut isn't in the note list, but fig leaves are said to have a scent similar to coconut. That's why a slight coconut-like note appears a little after spraying, when the sap and leaves blend together.
There's more for the same taste. Read my perfume taste guide for how I choose woody, citrus and fig scents, and my LOEWE ESENCIA EDP review for the woody perfume I'm on my second bottle of.